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| This page is where you will find tips on getting the most out of climbing at Crag X.
Scroll right to read articles on bouldering, training and more. New articles will be added to this page as our library of tips grows.
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How to Work a RedPoint |
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Work for the redpoint ascent. Do you know that feeling you get when you have worked on a route over a few sessions and finally send it bottom to top without falling? You've just redpointed a route and it feels great. While it's a great test of your ability to walk up to a route and Flash it in one go - the real climbing comes from workin' a project till it's yours. How to do it? Follow Niko's guide to the RP.
Pick a Route
Select a route that is a few grades harder than your recent on-sight levels. If you on-sight 5.10a than pick a 5.10c/d. Too much harder and this will become a longer term project. Try to pick a quality route that flows, with a good mix of attributes
'Sample' the Route
This is your chance to collect as much information about the entire route as possible. The more you know about routes secrets, the easier it will feel.
Break the route down into 4-6 move sections. You'll climb each section and then rest for at least 3min before continuing. The focus is to find the BEST way through each sequence for YOU. Try a few different options when things don't feel solid. As you un-lock the secrets of tricky sections, spend a few minutes reviewing the moves, eliminating silly mistakes on future attempts.
Break it Down
When you get back to the ground, you should be able to clearly identify a few key points; Where is the crux? Where can I rest/chalk-up? What can I train to improve my chances for a quick send?
Draw the Route
Draw the route out on paper with important key notes. Really, I mean it. There is something about writing things down that forces you to consider ever single move. Chicken scratches will do. Keep this map around and study it when away from the gym.
Repeat the Sampled Sections
After a solid rest, or better yet on your next visit, climb the route in the divided sections once again. Aim to learn the route well enough that you can recall all the hold types, sequences and tricks without ever looking at the route. With practice this skill will develop to become one of your most powerful tools.
Start to 'link' sections
Once you feel fluid on each section alone you can begin to start the 'linking' process. For the quickest redpoint possible, it is best to link sections from the top down. By linking this way, you get used to climbing the upper sections of the route while fatigued. As you repeatedly climb the linked upper sections, add more climbing from below. As the length of the linked segment grows you end up working the top moves while tired - just what you're going to have to be able to do on the big day.
Send it.
Be mentally prepared and rested up. Re-play the route on your way to the gym. Warm up with a little bouldering and tie in for the big send. Do it again for show! Soon enough you will be able to start from the bottom and cruise the route, seemingly without effort- 'cause the effort came before
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Boulder Circuits |
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Train for Power & Endurance. Planning summer trips outdoors? Training for maximum 'power-endurance' is critical for making the transition to stone. Outside, routes are longer and sequences are trickier to read, requiring sustained efforts from your forearms and fingers. Just spending a few focused sessions with our Boulder Circuits can quickly improve your ability to sustain holding power on routes at your grade limit and beyond. Better still, this training will help your recovery - between routes and climbing days.
One of the most efficient ways to dramatically increase your staying power on routes is to take advantage of the BOULDERING CIRCUITS now up at Crag X. Boulder problems are short rope-less routes designed for solo climbing.
During a heroic setting session, the Crag X crew put up close to 100 new boulder problems of all levels throughout the gym. Boulder problems were set across grade ranges starting at V0 (like 5.9) and topping out around the V6, V7 (up to 5.13a) level. The boulder problems are arranged into groups or rather 'CIRCUITS' of between 6 and 10 problems each. The first few problems are generally the easiest in each circuit followed by the 'crux' problems. The intensity of effort required then fades slightly on the final problems - giving each circuit a 'soft landing.'
How to Work It
Training Power-Endurance on Boulder Circuits is a straightforward progression from easy to hard. Start by climbing all the problems on the easiest circuit and work your way up the difficulty level, completing as many of the increasingly difficult circuits as you can. Once you are unable to complete a circuit with minimal rest time, return to the easiest circuits for some mileage - and to finish your arms off!! Allowing for a 1-2 minute rest between problems will keep the intensity about right - especially when you are working close to your limit. Try to complete at least four or five circuits each session. In an hour and a half you'll be cooked! If not, keep linking up more circuits superman!
If you have the luxury of time, you can also train for P/E on routes. Simply climb a route near your limit twice with no rest. If you've picked the right intensity, you should be very close to pumping out at the top of the second ascent. Our ropes are often set with two or three routes on them. Take advantage of our route setting and do a third rep on one of the easier lines to maximize each set. Keep the chatting down between routes and get as many sets in as time allows. Adjust your route selection to maintain the desired intensity, trying to finish close to failure on the second rep.
A sign near the stairs beside the desk lists all our boulder circuits and Crag X staff will be happy to point out the circuit that is best for you.
Remember to leave time for a few cool down routes!
Joe Bundron says "No other form of gym training returns as much gain for time spent."
Our expert route setters are planning a fresh round of circuits that will start going up next month - each designed to work the total climber and send you to the next level.
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